Apparel & Shoes

How to Clean New Balance 990 Shoes

New Balance 990 models are known for mixed-material uppers, commonly combining pigskin or cow suede, breathable mesh, synthetic overlays, reflective accents, and ENCAP or FuelCell-based cushioning. A single wet scrub can darken suede, spread soil into mesh, or lift the finish from a reflective panel. New Balance recommends testing a dye-free mild detergent, brushing, wiping with a damp cloth, and air-drying for 24 hours; it directs leather and suede owners to specialty cleaners and does not recommend a washer or dryer. This guide applies that material-by-material approach to the 990 family.

Published · Updated

Primary reference: New Balance: product care and maintenance. Always check the manual for your exact model.

Quick reference

990 challenge
Treat suede, mesh, reflective details, and rubber as separate surfaces.
Textile
Use tested dye-free mild detergent with a soft brush and minimal water.
Suede
Dry-brush and use a specialty suede cleaner, then restore nap when dry.
Avoid
Washers, dryers, soaking, bleach, alcohol, abrasives, and direct heat.
Dry
Air-dry for at least 24 hours and keep insoles and laces separate.

What you will need

  • A suede or nubuck brush
  • A soft textile brush
  • A white microfiber cloth
  • Cool water
  • Dye-free mild laundry detergent
  • A suede cleaner suitable for the exact upper
  • A suede eraser for dry scuffs
  • Plain white paper and a clean towel

Step-by-step instructions

Step 1: Map the materials before cleaning

Use the product listing and label to identify suede, mesh, synthetic overlays, reflective strips, and leather. 990v4, v5, and v6 constructions are not identical. Plan separate tools for suede and the sole, and test every detergent or suede product on a hidden edge. Let the test dry fully because wet suede temporarily appears darker.

Step 2: Remove laces, insoles, and dry dirt

Take out laces and removable insoles. Brush the dry suede in a consistent direction, then use a softer separate brush on mesh. Tap out grit and clean outsole grooves with another brush. Do not begin with water while loose dirt remains; moisture can turn surface dust into a stain embedded across the nap.

Step 3: Dry-treat suede marks first

Use a suede eraser lightly on dry scuffs and then brush away crumbs. For embedded marks, apply a suede cleaner made for the upper according to its label, working evenly instead of creating one soaked circle. New Balance specifically says leather or suede shoes need a specialty leather or suede cleaner rather than the ordinary detergent method.

Step 4: Clean mesh with tested mild detergent

Mix a small amount of dye-free mild detergent with cool water. New Balance recommends testing it on an inconspicuous area. Use a soft brush with minimal solution on mesh, supporting the fabric from inside. Wipe loosened soil immediately with a damp cloth and avoid flooding neighboring suede panels.

Step 5: Wipe overlays, reflective accents, and midsoles

Use a lightly damp cloth on synthetic overlays and the midsole. Clean around reflective details gently without abrasive pads, alcohol, or repeated friction. Use a separate toothbrush for rubber tread and wipe away dark foam before it spreads upward. Avoid trying to bleach normal foam aging back to factory white.

Step 6: Clean laces and insoles separately

Hand-wash laces in fresh mild solution, rinse, and blot. Wipe insoles with minimal detergent and a damp cloth, then wipe again with clean water. Do not soak the foam or reinstall it while damp. If an insole is glued, leave it in place and clean only its accessible surface.

Step 7: Restore the suede nap after drying

Wipe any detergent from non-suede surfaces with a clean damp cloth. Blot the shoes and loosely insert plain white paper to hold shape. Let them air-dry at room temperature. Once suede is fully dry, brush it evenly to lift and align the nap; brushing while wet can create flattened, patchy areas.

Step 8: Allow the full 24-hour dry time

New Balance instructs owners to air-dry shoes for 24 hours before wearing. Keep them away from washers, dryers, radiators, hair dryers, and direct sun. Dry laces and insoles separately, and do not apply protector or conditioner until the upper is dry and the product is verified for that exact suede or leather.

Specific cleaning questions

Open a question for a concise answer about stains, odors, safety, frequency, and troubleshooting.

Can New Balance 990 shoes go in the washing machine?
New Balance does not suggest putting its shoes in a washer or dryer because many materials should not be submerged or heated. The 990's suede, mesh, bonded overlays, and reflective parts make hand-cleaning the better method.
Can I use regular detergent on 990 suede?
New Balance says suede and leather need a specialty cleaner. Use dye-free mild detergent only on suitable textile areas after testing, and prevent it from soaking adjacent suede.
How do I clean the mesh without staining the suede?
Dry-brush first, use minimal solution on a small soft brush, support the mesh, and blot immediately. Work with the suede above the wet area so runoff does not pass across it.
How do I restore flattened suede on New Balance 990s?
Let the upper dry completely, then brush gently with a suede brush in a consistent direction. A suede eraser can address dry scuffs before brushing, but worn-away nap cannot be restored by harder scrubbing.
Can I use a magic eraser on the midsole?
Melamine is abrasive. If used at all, test very lightly on plain rubber or a hidden midsole edge and keep it away from suede, mesh, paint, and reflective details. Mild solution is safer.
Why did the suede get darker after cleaning?
Suede darkens while damp and may show rings if only one spot was saturated. Let it dry for the full period before judging, then brush the nap. Uneven dye loss or water staining may remain.
How long should New Balance 990 shoes dry?
New Balance recommends 24 hours of air-drying before wear. Extend that time if the lining or insole remains cool or damp, and avoid all direct heat.
Does this guide cover every 990 collaboration?
No. Collaborations may use pigskin, cow leather, synthetic suede, nubuck, patent, mesh, or delicate decorative finishes. Use the listed materials and release-specific care before applying a cleaner.